“The Ill-Matched Lovers” from the studio of Jacob
Cornelisz van Oostsanen, late 15th century
As promised back in February, here’s the 20 page research paper on the history, varieties and potential construction of the Hovetcleet (know in modern Dutch as a sluierkap).
It includes a visual survey of the change in the style of this item from the 1480s-90s through to the 1570s, as well as construction notes on the two versions that I have made in the past.
Very nice! Now I’m wondering what on earth the deal was with those odd “tails” seen in the Heemskerck paintings. There is one in the Epitres d’Ovide like that too – and you can see it from the side: : http://sites.univ-provence.fr/pictura/Images/A/8/A8427.jpg There are a few more in the same manuscript showing head coverings similar to the Hovetcleet.
Hi Lucrece, I had a small ephiphany while I was dicsusing this paper and my hovetcleets at Rowany Festival over Easter. I think there are two ways to cut the veil for this item. The first is the rectangle cut that I’ve always used, and results in the drape down the back of the dress that you see in the s’Hergenbosch market scene. I think the other cut is a trapezoid OR a trapezoid with a square at the apex which frames the face, a lot like the pattern for your tailed cap, and that’s where these tails from from. I think it was while discussing the back view of the hoveltcleet AND glancing at the fortuneteller by Lucas van Leyden that this ephiphany occurred. A trapezoidal shape would allow you to more neatly starch and pin that kite shape, and gives the pointed tails over her shoulders. This images are from the 1510s, so by the time the 1540s kicks in Heemskerk’s era) the tails have become more stylised and elongated.
It’s on the list to try out, but if you get there first, let me know.
Also, one of the ladies in my transitional Netherlandish and French hats class at Festival had made a tailed cap on a different pattern – shaped like and elongated pennon flag and it worked really well, we were able to pass both your pattern and hers around the class so people could compare the idea.